Band Shirts Forever
with Sandra Waibl
Sandra Waibl photographed fans from the biggest music scenes of the late nineties and early noughties as they awaited the precious hours seeing their icons on stage. Interested in subcultures and identities and how we communicate them to the world, Sandra studied at Goldsmiths and took her love for music as an easy inspiration for her work. The photos easily act as a style guide for any kid today looking to chase the noughties style of double denim and cargo pants. But there’s also an essence of the time, an anything might happen excitement, kids choosing their own path in a world that’s waiting for them.
Interview by Esta Maffrett | 02.12.23
How did you get into photography?
I was given a little pocket camera. I grew up in Germany and on the sixth of December St. Nicholas would come and leave presents, I got a pocket camera. It was in a soft old camera case and it’s the first thing I remember taking pictures with. My dad was a passionate amateur photographer who had a Canon that at some point I inherited from him. I decided to study photography and moved from Germany to London to go to Goldsmiths College in the late 90s which is where the project of people in queues took place.
When you went to college did you know what you wanted to photograph or were you still open?
I was always more into documentary and portraiture aspects of photography. I don’t think I knew exactly where I wanted to be but I knew I liked the immediateness of some photography. It was fun to do fashion shoots but I was looking for more realness. But also I loved music ever since I was young and I was really into going to gigs growing up. I regret not taking my camera with me to all of the amazing bands I saw in the 90s who were starting out. So music has really always been in the background for me and it was when I went to college and tried lots of different things it started to become clear.
So how did you settle on this project?
The Goldsmiths course was called Image and Communications which was very loose so for me it was about how people identify through music and how that relates to what we wear and what we do. So I looked at how different subcultures express themselves, what they’re listening to and what they’re wearing, sometimes it affects political beliefs as well. I found it interesting as well ho differently people behave in front of the camera. I went to something like 30 gigs just sort of to see how differently they acted. At first I planned to make the photos uniform in things like the background but then I just decided to keep it really loose and capture what I saw. I went to some pop gigs and indie gigs, S club to Coldplay, but overall I was drawn to more metal and grungy gigs because there wawa so much going on. Those gigs felt more coveted. At the time there was a lot of attitude to the camera.
We’ve been lucky enough to grow up together and our closeness has come from that. The softness is a reflection of how we are towards each other. We’ve gone through real shit and we hold each other up through that.
Does your own music taste lean towards metal and is it a subculture you identified with?
I’ve got a wide taste in music and I definitely am more into the alternative rock side of things like punk rock and I do like good pop music as well. But I really appreciate the strong identity you see in certain subcultures rather than the ones that seemed like they weren’t making an effort. Looking back now it’s interesting to see the 90s and early 00s fashion as unique and interesting that I didn’t notice at the time but love to see now.
I had two older brothers who really got me into the grunge movement as a teenager. They always seemed to be ahead of me in their music taste. In the mid 90s I got into Britpop which was partly why I moved to the UK and then Hip Hop as well I got into.
What was the mood at the time and in the queues and crowds at the gigs?
It was a weird and exciting time. We were leading up to the millennium when everyone thought the computers would turn off. People were thinking about new beginnings and having lots of different options because there were so many things going on. People could choose their own path because they didn’t have to be a rich person to support themselves, like in music you could live with a couple of people and follow what you wanted to do. I think it was easier to make music back then and break into the industry with it which meant people could be more daring whereas now there’s less diversity. As well with the arena shows they are not just for the fans anymore, from a financial point of view and because of the impossibility of getting tickets, and then there are less small venues.
It felt like an adventurous time with a can-do attitude. It was also a weird time with 9/11 and big world events so you can’t just look back with rose tinted glasses.
What do you think the importance of the band t-shirt is?
Massive. It’s huge because it’s all about identifying yourself, letting people know this is my favourite band. Going to gigs you would always wear a band shirt, it was what everyone did, and we would wear a shirt for another band that wasn’t in the gig just so you could sign post to people how good your music taste was. They tell people what you are and what you’re not. Most of them are great but not all of them, you know it when you see a good band t shirt. Some subcultures get more into it than others. Looking back metal bands took it on as a uniform, A motorhead shirt, denim jacket and boots, then you’re ready to go to the gig for the next 20 years. I love it.
Motorhead is, I think, one of the most iconic shots. I have one of my husbands Genesis 1975 shirts that I love, wish I’d kept a classic blue one with Pulp in orange on it.
If you could put one object into the Museum of Youth Culture what would it be and why?
Air Max Trainers. I’m a huge fan of trainers and I think they’re timeless and iconic. When they came out with the little bubble window everyone thought it was like seeing into the future.
You can follow Sandra here.
